Full credit goes to: SuperFlea
I had to replace my rear wheel bearings and decided to take pics and make a how-to, since i wasn’t able to find anything specific to what’s included or how the process is done.
On the scale of 1(easy) to 10(hard) on the easy / hard scale, i would rate this a 4. It’s actually very simple and it’s not too much time consuming.
The way i knew i needed to replace my wheel bearings was because they were producing a humming/grinding sound when the car was in movement. Of course the loudness of the noise consists of how deteriorated the bearings are. In my case, my driver’s side was the culprit . The passenger side was producing noise as wheel but not as bad as the other.
You can also check them by raising the car and grabbing the wheel and try to move it from side to side, up and down. If there’s any movement, there’s a chance they might need to be replaced. Although this isn’t a sure way to know if they’re bad.
In any case, it’s good practice to replace both sides at the same time. As well for the front.
- 45–60 minutes (took me only 30 minutes for the removal and installation and i had all except one tool at hand).
- $ 130 for the bearing kit.
- $ 10 for the shop that helped me press in and out the bearings.
- 13mm wrench
- 15mm wrench
- 19mm deep socket
- 30mm socket
- 1⁄2″ Socket wrench / rachet. (i used a handle wrench)
- Rubber mallet (or hammer)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Car Jack (I used a large 2 ton jack)
- Thread lock (for bolts)
- C‑Clip remover pliers
- A Press (this isn’t a tool that you would normally have around in your house, so if you don’t have one, just take it to a shop and have them do this job for you.)
Some of the tools i used -
To get started chalk your front tires (prevent the car from moving in any direction when lifting it with a jack).
Before i raised the car i loosened the rear wheel lug nuts, just enough to be able to take them off when the car is raised. Raise the rear of your Focus using a jack, or if you have access to a lift, even better.
Support the car on jack stands on both sides.
NEVER WORK ON A CAR THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON JACK STANDS OR JUST SUPPORTED ON THE JACK ITSELF! -
Now remove the rear tires. I have a tendency to place them under the car so in any case the car would to fall of the stands, it will fall on the wheels and not crush you’re arse while working under it! Of course, if that were to happen, it would F’ up your wheels . -
I went ahead and removed the dust cap from the hub, while i could still use the parking break, thus it wouldn’t spin while i was banging it. I used a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to remove it -
And i also loosened the hub retaining nut afterwards (just loosened it a bit). Of course this won’t spin, so you may do this after removing the calipers and rotors. But i went ahead and did it anyways. — You may need a power bar to do this. It can be hard.
Using a 13mm and a 15mm wrench, remove the bolts holding the caliper in place -
You may also want to unhook the emergency brake cable for more movement -
Remove the brake caliper and set aside -
Remove the brake pads from the rotors and set aside. This is also a good time to inspect them for unusual wear and replace if needed -
Remove the caliper-holding bracket using the 13mm wrench. It’s held by 2 bolts behind the spindle -
Set the bracket aside. You may also want to screw the bolts in place, to prevent from loosing them -
Remove the rotors -
Now you can continue with removing the hub retaining nut using the 30mm socket -
Remove the hub from the spindle -
My baby during the install -
Remember to replace the rubber seal that goes on the spindle. This prevents from water or dirt to enter into the bearing -
Now, onto the hubs.
Remove the ABS sensor ring -
Remove the water seal carrier -
Using the C‑Clip pliers, remove the C‑clip (or Circlip) from the hub -
Like stated above, i don’t have a press, (yet ) so i took both hubs to an alignment shop and had them press out the old bearings and press in the new ones -
Just by looking at the used bearings, you can’t really notice the damage unless you spin them. You can feel the wear on them -
Remember to clean the spindles before installing the hubs in place. Inspect for any corrosion and replace if needed -
Install the hub in place and screw on the retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 174 lbs-ft (as the instructions that came with the kit stated) -
Install the dust cap (The kit came with new caps, plus i damaged mine upon removal (“common”)) I was having a hard time installing them into place, so i had to use a little brute force . Hence the marks on the cap -
Install the rotors into place -
Install the caliper bracket back into place and tighten the bolts to 52 lb-ft (as stated in sheet that came with the kit). Install the pads and the caliper into place, tighten the caliper bolts to 41lbs-ft. Remember to hook the emergency cable back up. It’s also a good idea to use some thread lock on the bolts -
Before installing your wheels, be sure to double check everything, just in case
Install you wheel back on the car. Tighten the lug nuts to 95 lbs-ft.
You’re good to go. Test drive the car starting at a low speed and accelerating from there.