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Replace rear wheel bear­ing on Ford Focus

Full cred­it goes to: Super­Flea

I had to replace my rear wheel bear­ings and decided to take pics and make a how-to, since i was­n’t able to find any­thing spe­cif­ic to what’s included or how the pro­cess is done.

On the scale of 1(easy) to 10(hard) on the easy /​ hard scale, i would rate this a 4. It’s actu­ally very simple and it’s not too much time con­sum­ing.

The way i knew i needed to replace my wheel bear­ings was because they were pro­du­cing a humming/​grinding sound when the car was in move­ment. Of course the loud­ness of the noise con­sists of how deteri­or­ated the bear­ings are. In my case, my driver­’s side was the cul­prit . The pas­sen­ger side was pro­du­cing noise as wheel but not as bad as the oth­er.

You can also check them by rais­ing the car and grabbing the wheel and try to move it from side to side, up and down. If there’s any move­ment, there’s a chance they might need to be replaced. Although this isn’t a sure way to know if they’re bad.

In any case, it’s good prac­tice to replace both sides at the same time. As well for the front.

Pro­cess Time:

  • 45–60 minutes (took me only 30 minutes for the remov­al and install­a­tion and i had all except one tool at hand).

Cost:

  • $ 130 for the bear­ing kit.
  • $ 10 for the shop that helped me press in and out the bear­ings.

Tools:

  • 13mm wrench
  • 15mm wrench
  • 19mm deep sock­et
  • 30mm sock­et
  • 12Sock­et wrench /​ rachet. (i used a handle wrench)
  • Rub­ber mal­let (or ham­mer)
  • Flat­head screw­driver
  • Car Jack (I used a large 2 ton jack)
  • Thread lock (for bolts)
  • C‑Clip remover pli­ers
  • A Press (this isn’t a tool that you would nor­mally have around in your house, so if you don’t have one, just take it to a shop and have them do this job for you.)

Some of the tools i used -

To get star­ted chalk your front tires (pre­vent the car from mov­ing in any dir­ec­tion when lift­ing it with a jack).

Before i raised the car i loosened the rear wheel lug nuts, just enough to be able to take them off when the car is raised. Raise the rear of your Focus using a jack, or if you have access to a lift, even bet­ter.

Sup­port the car on jack stands on both sides.
NEVER WORK ON A CAR THAT IS NOT PROPERLY SUPPORTED ON JACK STANDS OR JUST SUPPORTED ON THE JACK ITSELF! -

Now remove the rear tires. I have a tend­ency to place them under the car so in any case the car would to fall of the stands, it will fall on the wheels and not crush you’re arse while work­ing under it! Of course, if that were to hap­pen, it would F’ up your wheels . -

I went ahead and removed the dust cap from the hub, while i could still use the park­ing break, thus it would­n’t spin while i was banging it. I used a flat­head screw­driver and a ham­mer to remove it -

And i also loosened the hub retain­ing nut after­wards (just loosened it a bit). Of course this won’t spin, so you may do this after remov­ing the cal­ipers and rotors. But i went ahead and did it any­ways. — You may need a power bar to do this. It can be hard.

Using a 13mm and a 15mm wrench, remove the bolts hold­ing the cal­iper in place -

You may also want to unhook the emer­gency brake cable for more move­ment -

Remove the brake cal­iper and set aside -

Remove the brake pads from the rotors and set aside. This is also a good time to inspect them for unusu­al wear and replace if needed -

 

Remove the cal­iper-hold­ing brack­et using the 13mm wrench. It’s held by 2 bolts behind the spindle -

 

 

Set the brack­et aside. You may also want to screw the bolts in place, to pre­vent from loos­ing them -

Remove the rotors -

 

Now you can con­tin­ue with remov­ing the hub retain­ing nut using the 30mm sock­et -

 

Remove the hub from the spindle -

My baby dur­ing the install -

Remem­ber to replace the rub­ber seal that goes on the spindle. This pre­vents from water or dirt to enter into the bear­ing -

Now, onto the hubs.

Remove the ABS sensor ring -

Remove the water seal car­ri­er -

Using the C‑Clip pli­ers, remove the C‑clip (or Circlip) from the hub -

 

Like stated above, i don’t have a press, (yet ) so i took both hubs to an align­ment shop and had them press out the old bear­ings and press in the new ones -

Just by look­ing at the used bear­ings, you can­’t really notice the dam­age unless you spin them. You can feel the wear on them -

 

Install the water car­ri­er seals and the ABS sensor rings back on the hubs. The kit i bought came with new ABS sensor rings and water seals -

 

 

Remem­ber to clean the spindles before installing the hubs in place. Inspect for any cor­ro­sion and replace if needed -

Install the hub in place and screw on the retain­ing nut. Tight­en the nut to 174 lbs-ft (as the instruc­tions that came with the kit stated) -

Install the dust cap (The kit came with new caps, plus i dam­aged mine upon remov­al (“com­mon”)) I was hav­ing a hard time installing them into place, so i had to use a little brute force . Hence the marks on the cap -

 

Install the rotors into place -

 

Install the cal­iper brack­et back into place and tight­en the bolts to 52 lb-ft (as stated in sheet that came with the kit). Install the pads and the cal­iper into place, tight­en the cal­iper bolts to 41lbs-ft. Remem­ber to hook the emer­gency cable back up. It’s also a good idea to use some thread lock on the bolts -

Before installing your wheels, be sure to double check everything, just in case

Install you wheel back on the car. Tight­en the lug nuts to 95 lbs-ft.

 

You’re good to go. Test drive the car start­ing at a low speed and accel­er­at­ing from there.

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